Backpacking Stoves and Fuel: What You Need to Know
Alcohol, butane, kerosene, petrol, wood, Esbit or Shellite? Upright, Integrated, Remote or Inverted? Open or Sideburner? Read on to understand their characteristics and differences, and which suit what.
Breakfast, Lake Elysia, Tasmania: no campfires permitted here, but your morning cuppas will taste just as good on a stove… at least any stove that will burn!
The glow of a crackling campfire under a vast sky sprinkled with stars… ah, the joys of backpacking. What could be better than boiling the billy over the coals, toasting marshmallows and warming your hands against the chill?
Unfortunately, today’s changing climate, environmental restrictions and Leave no Trace (LNT) principles mean that a shrinking number of places permit fires. Geoff and I love a little campfire, but good luck in finding dry wood – let alone kindling – in southern Australia’s soggy winters. Even if you do get a fire started, keeping it going whilst hunched over your cookpot in smoke and bucketing rain is no fun.
This is why so many hikers now use backpacking stoves and wow, what a bewildering selection of them there are. We older folk remember the chunky but indestructible (the design is still available today) – Trangia running on methylated spirits (aka ethanol) or, for very cold conditions, the brass pump Primus running on liquid fuels such as kerosene. Today, pretty much every backpacker has seen or used a gas canister stove, particularly the ubiquitous MSR Pocket Rocket and Jetboil.
Jetboil Stash on top of the world (Image Credit: Brian Driscoll)
But there are so many more choices than Pocket Rockets and Jetboils, and your best choice depends on your hiking style, temperament, climate and environment, the number of days you’re hiking, the importance of weight and convenience, whether you’re cooking or just boiling water, and many more considerations. As always in our articles we cover a little basic physics so your choices are underpinned by an understanding of how and why, rather than just what; Aussie hiking and stove designer veteran Roger Caffin has generously shared his expertise too. Grab a coffee and settle in for a deep dive into Part One on everything Fuel, Heat and Backpacking Stoves! Alternatively, skip fuels and go straight to the discussion on stoves.
Fuels
Breakfast with the Caldera cone alcohol system on Hinchinbrook Island, Queensland
The type of stove you have depends on the type of fuel you use. Whilst a few rare stoves accommodate different fuels, nearly all are limited to one fuel group ie, you can use different liquid fuels in a stove but not gas or alcohol and vice-versa. It’s therefore useful to understand the limitations and advantages of different fuels before considering stoves.
Fuel nomenclature varies with country. We use Aussie terminology and provide the most common synonyms. For a complete list, see Roger Caffin’s Guide.
The potential energy output of a fuel is recorded in either megajoules (MJ/kg), British Thermal Units (BTU/lb) or kilowatt hours. Which one you use is personal preference, just ensure you use the same units for each fuel type if you are comparing. We say potential because the actual energy that is applied to the pot depends on your burner/stove and exposure to external influences such as wind and the pot itself. Energy output does provide a guide to how fast fuel burns and the speed at which water can be boiled. The higher the value the faster the burn/boil. But beware, a fast boil time doesn’t necessarily mean a more efficient burn, it may simply be faster with fuel consumed more quickly.
You may also come across terms such as:
autoignition temperature, the lowest temperature in which fuel spontaneously ignites in the absence of a spark or flame;
fire/combustion point, the lowest temperature at which the vapour of that fuel continues to burn for at least five seconds after ignition by an open flame
flash point, the "lowest liquid temperature at which a liquid gives off vapours in a quantity such as to be capable of forming an ignitable vapour/air mixture”.
These values are calculated under standardised, controlled conditions (pressure and temperature) and are of little use to us hikers in practice, but are helpful when comparing fuels.
See a selection of temperature related and energy values for common fuels in the table below:
None of the fuels hikers use will ignite unless an external heat source or flame is applied, and the temperature of an external source of a lit match (600 degrees Celsius) is well above their standardised recorded flash and autoignition points.
We’ve grouped backpacking stove fuels into the following four categories:
Gas
[Jump to] Liquid
[Jump to] Alcohol and
[Jump to] Solid Fuels
Gas
Soto Amicus and Java Drip Cup (Image Credit: MIchael Erder)
Gas comes in pressurised canisters and is usually butane, isobutane and/or propane.
These compounds exist as gases at sea level under atmospheric pressure conditions, provided the ambient temperature is higher than their boiling point. Many canisters contain a mix of these gases. The gas is under pressure in the canister to convert it into liquid form so it can be stored and transported.
The main limitation of some of these fuels is that their boiling point is within the range of temperatures you might experience on hikes in below freezing conditions. Whilst this is unlikely to apply to most hikers, it is worth noting. Pressure is proportional to Temperature for a constant volume of container so, as the temperature drops, so does pressure in your canister. In extreme cold there is a risk that the liquid in your canister won’t convert to a gas when you open the valve on your stove, as well as other issues. The other disadvantage is the weight of the canister - it has to be strong to safely contain the pressurised gas.
The boiling point of butane is -1C (-31F), isobutane -12C (12F) and propane -42C (-44F). So at temperatures below these each gas becomes a liquid. They do however have high energy outputs and therefore boil water quickly: the energy rating for 1 kilogram of butane is 49.2 MJ/kg or 21500 BTU/lb. Isobutane and propane are similar.
Gas canisters are widely available and the choice of most backpackers in popular hiking areas, but we have occasionally had trouble sourcing them in remote places.
Liquid Fuels
Our Primus Omnifuel, bought at a bargain price on Massdrop and never used because we haven’t yet camped in places cold enough to need it, burns not only liquid fuels such as kerosene and petrol, but also white gas and gas. But beware: it has three tiny interchangeable jet nozzles for each fuel; you can see two of them on the fire mat.
These include
Kerosene (aka kerosine, jet fuel, Jet-A Fuel, paraffin, benzine)
Unleaded petrol (aka gasoline, petrol)
White Gas (aka white fuel, naphtha, naptha, Shellite, camping fuel, Coleman Fuel, Optimus Arctic Fuel, MSR Super Fuel, Aspen 4.)
White ‘gas’ is a liquid. Other common liquid fuels are unleaded petrol and kerosene. All are liquids under normal ambient temperatures and pressures; their boiling points are at much higher temperatures.
We apply heat to these fuels to convert them into their gaseous form, which is then ignited. Hence the need to prime (warm) the stove parts or liquid fuel to get the burning process underway. Once the stove is lit, the process is self-sustaining provided 1. sufficient oxygen is supplied and 2. there is sufficient pressure in the fuel delivery system to supply fuel to the burner.
“Mike Libecki starting the daily boil on the MSR XGK-EX Stove; their stoves worked for at least two to three hours a day to hydrate and cook for four people in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica for 50 days.” (Words, Image Credit: Keith Ladzinski, MSR website).
Energy Output of Liquid Fuels
Kerosene – 46.4 MJ/kg : BTU/lb 20,000
Petrol – 46.5 MJ/kg : BTU/lb – 20,100
White Gas – 47.7 MJ/kg : BTU/lb 20,700
You can see that the energy output from liquid fuels can be similar to that of gas fuels, so their heating properties are also similar. However, Roger clarifies this is in theory but not in practice:
“Kero and petrol are limited by the inability of many stove designs to get enough oxygen into the flame. For this reason these liquid fuel stoves generally have a significantly lower heat output: <2 kW. That is, the output has to be throttled down to match the available oxygen supply. The exceptions are expedition level and ‘roarer’ liquid fuel stoves which can exceed 4kW. Canisters get up to 3 kW.”
Their high boiling point and low freezing points (all less than -40C/-40F) mean that the fuels ares stable and burn efficiently across all hiking conditions, so they are extremely versatile.
Availability varies with country and region. Of course unleaded petrol is readily available at petrol stations everywhere; because unleaded petrol (gasoline) has a relatively low boiling point, you need a more robust container. Most hiking and hardware stores stock white gas but it is not as widely available as petrol. In the past, kerosene (paraffin) was also widely available but in some countries, such as parts of the UK, this is no longer the case.
Some multifuel stoves burn diesel but the latter tends to clog jets quickly, and most hikers avoid using it.
Alcohol (usually methylated spirits aka ethanol).
Trangias and various fuel bottles on the Great Ocean Walk, Victoria, (Image Credit: Rachel James-Seviour)
Other terms/fuels include denatured alcohol, meths, metho and methanol. Ethanol and bioethanol are chemically the same: the different names refer to the way they are produced.
Alcohol burns cleanly and most stoves are self-priming. You simply light the liquid ethanol in the fuel storage component of the stove and it quickly heats the stove itself sufficiently to vaporise the fuel and, from then on, the dominant burn is from the vapour.
Concentrations vary so beware. The higher the ethanol content, the hotter and cleaner the burn. 95% ethanol is desirable but lower percentages of 70% will still burn if you have nothing better.
Ethanol’s freezing point (-114C/-173F) and boiling point (78C/172F) are well outside the likely range of temperatures you might experience, so it remains stable. However, it can become difficult to light in cold conditions and we’ll cover fixes in Part Two.
Energy Output of Ethanol
The energy rating for ethanol (29.8 MJ/kg or 13,000 BTU/lb) is much lower than the gas or liquid fuels so, with exception of gasification style stoves like the Goshawk Pioneer* gasification stove system, it takes longer to boil water. It is also less effective in very cold conditions than liquid fuels because you’ll need a lot more fuel to, say, melt snow. It is still fine for boiling a cup or two of water.
Alcohol is widely available from hardware stores, camping stores, supermarkets, and petrol stations. In our opinion it is the most easily sourced of all fuels.
*Disclaimer: Slowerhiking were sent the Goshawk Pioneer Eddy 200 stove for testing.
Solid Fuels
ESBIT fuel tablets store forever and are incredibly light: think firelighters, but smellier.
The two best known solid fuels are wood and hexamine fuel tablets: ESBIT is the most common brand. FireDragon Fuel tablets are a relatively new arrival, although gel fuels have been around for a long time; we used gel to prime our Optimus liquid fuel stove four decades ago.
This type of fuel is stable under normal ambient conditions but undergoes a thermal decomposition process called pyrolysis where the structure breaks down releasing gases and leaving a residue. FireDragon tablets comprise a solidified ethanol gel that melts when lit; they need a container.
The liquid fuel priming gel that came with our 4 decades old Optimus. The stove was fine but sadly not the gel!
Energy Output of Solid Fuels
Wood - 20 MJ/kg : 8,500 BTU/lb
Hexamine fuel tablets - 30.6 MJ/kg : 13,000 BTU/lb
FireDragon fuel tablets - 29 MJ/Kg : 12,500 BTU/lb
You can see that these are far below that of gas and liquid fuels; alcohol is comparable to hexamine, but wood is the lowest of all.
It’s well and good heating water over a large flame but tiny twig stoves put out a fraction of the heat. (Image Credit: Alan Heskith)
Another limitation of solid fuels is that they can’t always be used during fire danger periods or for LNT principles, and that they take longer to boil water than the other fuel/stove combinations, especially in extreme cold when burning wood may not keep up with your pot’s heat loss to surrounding air. Esbit is effective across the full range of hiking temperatures and terrain but Roger reminds us that it cannot be used in enclosed spaces due to toxic fumes, which is problematic in bad weather when we are cooking in our vestibules.
In the extreme cold, Esbit and wood have problems similar to those of alcohol. FireDragon fuel can be used in cold (but how cold, we wonder?) and reportedly lights more easily than alcohol. Even with newcomers to the market, have things changed or are these products minor tweaks? Probably. Pressure petrol/kerosene stoves and gas outperform alcohol and solid fuel. There have been refinements and developments along the way but the underlying principles and results don't seem to have changed much.
Trangia and its brass alcohol stove, Mars Bluff (Image Credit: Rod Wallace)
2. Stoves
Alcohol fuelled Trangia (it can also be powered by gas) foreground with upright gas canister stove behind, Lake St Clair, Tasmania (Image Credit: Rod Wallace)
If you’ve camped or backpacked for a while, you likely have at least two different stoves in your shed. Some people have dozens! As we gain experience, we discover what works best for us, and seek stoves that better meet our needs. For example, Geoff and I quickly realised that the alcohol stove that we used had to be slightly overfilled to boil the volume of water we preferred. The overfill caused inefficiencies, so that a different stove performed better.
Stoves and kitchen also comprise a significant component of pack weight, and many of us who start with heavy stoves soon want lighter options. Conversely, other hikers become frustrated with the speed of their stove and choose something faster.
Our article goes into modest detail but encyclopaedias have been written on stoves – they are a marvellous Gear Geek Staple! – so, if you’re interested in looking deeper, check the links at the end of the article. Backpackinglight.com also has numerous excellent articles on stoves, fuels, weight and specific performance comparisons but they are paywalled.
Now that we understand how fuel behaves, let’s investigate the different kinds of backpacking stoves we put them in.
They include:
Gas Canister Stoves (upright, integrated and remote types)
Alcohol stoves (open, open jet, closed jet, gasification)
Chemical stoves (esbit/hexamine)
2.1. Canister stoves
MSR Mini on the Kepler Track, New Zealand (Image Credit: Sarah Cee)
These are the most common kind of stove, with 450g (16 oz), 110g (3.9 oz) and 227g (8 oz) gas canisters sold in petrol stations, outdoor and hardware stores, as well as at caravan parks, general stores and visitor centres near popular backpacking locations. Well-known brands include Optimus, Fire Maple, Kovea, MSR, Jetboil, Snow Peak, Soto, Primus, Campingaz, and BRS. Roger points out that poor-quality copies of popular models such as the BRS 3000T can sometimes be found on platforms such as Amazon and AliExpress. Caveat emptor!
The fuel in canisters varies somewhat, with a blend of propane, n-butane and/or iso-butane depending on brand. Does blend matter? Hikin Jim says only if you are camping below 10C, when you should avoid blends with butane (more on this later); otherwise, buy any canister filled with the cheaper butane. This is because propane vaporises at much lower temperatures than butane. In other words, they exist as gas, not liquid, in normal temperatures.
Pocket Rocket in the cold on Thark Ridge, Tasmania (Image Credit: Gil Bear)
Atmospheric pressure also influences performance of canister stoves. Lower atmospheric pressure at elevation means each of these fuels vaporise at a higher temperature. In practice, it’s also colder in alpine areas but water boils at a lower temperature, so it’s swings and roundabouts.
Over the years, we’ve regularly encountered backpackers whose stoves were incompatible with canisters available in that country, and this is one of the reasons Geoff prefers alcohol stoves – methylated spirits is available in every hardware shop and petrol station. However, more recently the canisters, Lindal B188 valve attachment and rim are standardised because nearly all canisters filled by manufacturers such as Primus, MSR, Snowpeak and Coleman are produced in a single Korean factory. In the UK and Europe, Campingaz uses an Ezy Click connection rather than a Lindal valve.
Campingaz Bleuet MicroPlus canister stove with Ezy Clic connector rather than a Lindal valve (Image Credit: Campingaz).
The weight of the canisters themselves is important too. Net and gross differences between small, medium and large canisters mean the large canister is far more efficient… but only if you use all the fuel. So it’s important to know daily fuel useage before your trip to calculate the most weight efficient combination. In Part Two, we’ll discuss this further.
Different size canisters mean the right choice is more efficient for different length trips. You also have to deal with partially filled canisters and disposing of empty ones; we’ll cover this in Part Two.
Some have piezo ignition, which can be unreliable; many people carry a backup firesteel, lighter or matches. Piezo ignition also adds enough weight (15-20g/0.5-0.7oz) to deter gram weenies.
2.1.1. Upright canister stoves
Pocket Rockets at Floe Lake, Canadian Rockies (Image Credit: Sara Ivy)
Of canister stoves, upright models are the lightest, simplest option, weighing between about 35g-190g (1.6-6.7oz), from budget brands such as BRS and our little Kovea, to more expensive models such as the MSR Pocket Rocket Deluxe or the highly regarded Soto Amicus and Windmaster.
These stoves simply screw into the gas canister with small arms (some smaller than others!) that fold out to support your pot to varying degrees of stability.
Although we call them gas canisters, the gases inside are actually in their liquid state because they have been compressed (this requires energy). When you open the valve, the pressure drops and the liquid boils, becoming vapour that vents through the outlet like steam out of a boiling kettle: it mixes with air as it emerges from the stove jet and this is what we light to power our upright canister stove. Obviously, venting requires the pressure inside the canister to be higher than the air pressure outside and this can be compromised in extremely cold conditions: the temperature outside has to be warmer than the boiling point of the liquid gas. In extremely cold temperatures, the ambient temperature may be too low for this to happen, just as for a kettle on a cold hob.
The vaporisation process where liquid turns into gas requires energy. Our boiling kettle gets it from the hob, but the liquid gas in our canister boils primarily using energy stored as latent heat when the gas was first compressed into a liquid. The conversion of this latent heat is why your canister becomes colder and colder to the touch as the stove runs. Some heat energy is also absorbed from the ambient air, heat from the burning stove above it, or anything warmer than the vaporisation temperature of the gas. In very cold temperatures, there may be insufficient heat to continue vaporising the gas (especially butane) and your stove goes out.
Upright canister stoves left to right: MSR Pocket Rocket Deluxe, Primus (for ETA express) and Kovea titanium. Note the differences in burner size and shape, as well as the supporting arms, all folded for storage.
Although all models have the same basic shape, astonishing differences exist in their speed and efficiency, and this is what intrigues numerous gear geeks. Our Kovea uses a similar same amount of fuel to boil 1L of water to our Pocket Rocket Deluxe, but takes nearly 50% longer (both at 3/4 open). In still air, upright gas stoves are very fast but the impact of wind is notorious; sometimes you will be lucky to get faint warmth into the water, let alone a boil. The colder your weather and the longer your trip, the more important the efficiency of your stove becomes.
Original Pocket Rocket providing breakfast at Thousand Island Lake, California. Note the canister stand providing extra stability. (Image Credit Chris Flower)
Wind-resistant models have design characteristics that protect the flame, such as a recessed burner or a particular jet pattern but, regardless of these design modifications, in moderate wind all upright canister stoves are more efficient with a windscreen around the jets, flame and pot; screens must never fully encircle canisters as they may overheat.
Upright canister stoves are easy to operate, assemble and they light without priming. They are relatively fast with adjustable temperature control, so they simmer and cook as well as just boil water. Lindal valves and Ezy Cliks self-seal so canisters don’t leak or spill. However, the stoves can be tippy, especially with tall or large pots, so consider a canister stand if you use your stove on uneven surfaces rather than on picnic tables.
2.1.2 Integrated Upright Canister Stoves aka Heat Exchanger Pots
For those on a budget, the CampMaster Ultrajet Stove seen here at Collins Cap, Tasmania, is a fraction of the price of a Jetboil (Image Credit: Hollie Kolabinski)
These include the famous Jetboil systems, Primus Lite and Lite XL, MSR Windburner and Reactor, Firemaple Star X2 and Polaris, as well as cheap knockoffs such as the budget (AUD39 at time of writing) KMart UltraJet pictured above. They are known as integrated because stove, windscreen and pot form an integrated unit: you can’t swap out different stoves although Roger points out that pots may work with other stoves. They incorporate heat exchangers — baffles or fins — that trap heat, increase surface area and speed heating. Most integrated stoves also have piezo ignition so all you need to do is attach your stove/pot to the canister, crank the gas and click the piezo.
Integrated canisters are immensely popular because they are convenient, fast, and wind resistant. They excel at boiling water but aren’t great for cooking food, so are ideal for freezer bag dehydrated meals. Although these stoves are fast, some are less efficient than others. They are also heavy compared to some systems mentioned in this article. This won’t matter to most who use them on short trips but, on long multiday hikes in remote areas where every gram counts, you must operate them at peak efficiency (which is not with the valve fully open). Users report significant efficiency differences between brands and even models within brands.
The tall, narrow shape of these stoves make many of them tippy so, unless you plan to use them only on picnic tables, the minor additional weight of the canister stand is worth non-gritty meals, here at Gunbower Creek, Victoria (Image Credit: Diane Perkins)
2.1.3.i Remote Canister Stoves
Two Trangias in Gariwerd (Grampians), Victoria. The one in the foreground is running on alcohol, whereas the one in the background has an upright remote canister stove. (Image Credit Suz MadSuz)
Remote canister stoves connect to the canister via a fuel line. This means the stove can sit on the ground rather than on top of the canister. Why bother with such an apparently unnecessary modification? Remote canister stoves are much more stable because they are directly on the ground, particularly useful if you have a large pot. As well, because the canister is remote from the stove, you can use a windscreen around the latter, creating a more efficient burn.
2.1.3.ii Inverted remote canister stoves
The Alpkit Koro Inverted Canister stove with adaptor (Image Credit: Mike Waite)
The Alpkit Koro has a low, stable, broad burner with a remote gas cylinder. It has a vapourising pre-heater tube. ( Image Credit: Mike Waite).
These stoves such as the Optimus Vega and MSR’s WindPro II also include a fuel line between the stove and the canister, which sits on a stand so it is inverted with the valve at the bottom; you are in effect creating a liquid fuel stove (below). A needle valve or regulator ensures a constant flow rate of the now liquid fuel. Instead of relying on pressure created by the release of latent heat inside the canister, in many (but not all) the liquid fuel runs through the line and is preheated and vaporised in a tube through or near the flame of the stove. Roger’s V6 Vortex Burner uses a different heat exchange mechanism.
They have all the advantages of remote canister stoves but are designed for use in below freezing temperatures that excessively drop the pressure inside the canister. As well, because the gas isn’t vaporising inside the inverted canister, the latter doesn’t cool further while in use in very cold weather.
Although some inverted remote canister stoves are bulky and heavy, others are not.
Here’s Roger Caffin on his V6 Vortex Burner stove: “The prime aim was to reduce the weight. Some Western remote canister stoves are ridiculously heavy. The V6 is 90g complete and it has dual controls: one on the canister for safety (on/off) and one at the burner for fine control.
“Another 'thing' that I wanted to eliminate was the tube over the flames. It is needed for sure with kero (BP ~200C), but it is NOT needed for propane/butane.”
You should never invert a remote canister with a stove and/or fuel line designed for upright use.
2.2. Alcohol Stoves
Although you’ll find few alcohol stoves in your average outdoor retailer, these stoves are beloved by the many who buy them from cottage suppliers and Amazon. Without any moving parts, they are simple, reliable and extremely lightweight especially on shortish trips where the weight of the stove itself – astonishingly, often just 10g-20g – is not cancelled out by the heavier weight of the fuel (alcohol contains fewer MJs than canister gas). Conversely, long-distance hikers also use them for their light weight, lighter than any except a solid fuel stove. They are also completely silent, with no offensive fumes. Geoff and I love them, but they aren’t for everyone.
Geoff preparing dinner with our Caldera Cone, Evernew 1300ml wide pot and Toaks siphon combo, Overland Track, Tasmania
At close to double the boil time of a good canister stove, alcohol stoves are slow. However, for many hikers, an extra three or even six minutes is neither here nor there, whereas for others it is a dealbreaker. You won’t be surprised to know that here at slowerhiking, we’re happy to wait!
The exception is for multifuel wood gas stoves like the Bush Buddy paired with an alcohol burner; at just over 7 minutes to boil a litre of water, stoves like the Australian Goshawk Pioneer Eddy 200* rival slower gas canister stoves:
The Goshawk’s secondary gasification burn creates an extremely hot, clean flame with alcohol as well as wood as described here.
*Disclaimer: slowerhiking were sent this stove for testing
Alcohol will burn at very low temperatures, certainly most temperatures you’d find in Australia but, if you need to melt snow or are needing to heat significant amounts of water, they really aren’t suited for this as the heat output is a lot less than that of canisters and liquid fuel stoves. Alcohol can also be difficult to light in cold or snow because the liquid vaporises poorly; see Part Three for tips on how to use alcohol stoves in snow.
You’ll find alcohol stoves in countless configurations. A windscreen is essential to prevent the unpressurised flame’s heat from being blown sideways away from the pot base and many models integrate windscreens into the stove. Some, such as the FancyFeest, are designed so that the stove itself becomes a pot support; some use small supports that sit on the stove, and others (Caldera Cone) use the windscreen to support the pot.
Pot, Cone (pot support and windscreen) with toaks siphon stove on the foil mat. We replaced the small square with a disc to fit the cone after this trip to further minimise scorching and increase reflected heat.
They are completely silent, almost odorless and in Australia you can find fuel for them anywhere. You carry exactly the amount of fuel you need in bottle(s) to suit the length of your trip. Although some people store this fuel in aluminium fuel bottles, Roger advises that you check specifications as some forms of metho corrode aluminium bottles - especially in America where additives are less controlled and often hazardous. Geoff and I are comfortable using plastic fuel bottles. The plastic bottles themselves weigh very little:
Fuel bottles L to R: 150ml (5.1oz) plastic ethanol fuel bottle 12g (42oz), red Primus 350ml (12oz) liquid fuel bottle 119g (4.2oz), 400ml (13.5oz) plastic ethanol fuel bottle 38g (1.34oz). The pump in the foreground goes into the liquid fuel bottle when using the stove.
Alcohol Stove Safety
One danger of alcohol fuel stoves is that, when burning cleanly, flames are hard to see in daylight and because stoves are also silent, accidents are much more likely to happen. An even bigger danger is adding more fuel to the stove while it is still lit: this tracks back to the bottle and may cause a meltdown if you’re using plastic.
The other widely-touted danger is alcohol spills and some regions don’t allow the use of stoves that lack a shut off valve. This has always somewhat mystified Geoff and me because an upright canister stove that tips sideways can just as easily ignite surrounding flammables before being switched off as can a spill of alcohol. Alcohol stoves tend to be small, low and light, so they are relatively stable and much less likely to tip than canister stoves. As well, although some alcohol stoves can’t be instantaneously extinguished until the fuel burns out, numerous others can be. The Trangia, Kojin, Zelph and similar stoves either have lids that act as shut off valves or you can use the pot or a cup; we instantly snuff our Toaks with the bottom of a cup, too.
Our old Starlyte with batting under the mesh; the Kojin is similar. Note the lid that allows the stove to be sealed — other stoves have screwtop lids — and the inner ring that we had removed to boil our larger pot;
Alcohol stoves with large holes never clog, whereas those with tiny jets like our Toaks can and do. However, the stove will just gradually heat more slowly and you can use a pricker of the right size to unclog them.
Teeny tiny jets on the inner lip of the Toaks Siphon stove
Open stoves can not merely be snuffed but also sealed, so you carry leftover alcohol to your next campsite in the stove instead of the fuel bottle. Unlike some stoves, our Toaks siphon stove is of a design that, after extinguishing the flame, allows decanting remaining fuel back into the fuel bottle. This is a great advantage, especially initially when you are still working out how much fuel you need for different volumes and environments.
Different alcohol stoves and/or systems are better suited to larger or smaller pots depending on their capacity, flame pattern and stability; we’ll address this further in Part Two of this series.
However, like all stoves, each design is most effective when the burner is a certain distance from the bottom of the pot, usually 2-3cm (0.79”- 1.18”). If you buy a stove that comes with a stand, you can be confident that the distance is correct but, if you start swapping around stoves like we do, you may need to modify your setup by raising your stove or raising the pot. Other alcohol stoves require more airflow than provided by certain windscreen stands. Don’t be afraid to experiment: boil tests are straightforward to identify changes to efficiency.
Cooking and Boiling with Alcohol Stoves
Here is an old 12-10 stove, slightly the worse for wear, with a simmer ring that we think belongs to it (there have been a number of 12-10s over the years!). The ring restricts the air inflow.
Although most alcohol stoves lack adjustment and are relatively poor for simmering (the Fire Maple Volcano has a flame regulator and is an exception), some have simmer rings that fit on top or around the stove to reduce the number of air intake holes, or the area of flame on top. Conversely, we removed a ring in our Starlyte stove to increase the area of flame to boil the large amounts of water we need for two greedy campers. Although simmer rings help, the pot combination you use them with makes a huge difference too. The famous Trangia set has long been used to fry, boil and even bake; Part Two covers pots and cooking.
2.2.1 Different alcohol stoves
Alcohol stoves L to R: 12-10 (much the worse for wear; it may have been stepped on), Evernew, Starlyte.
Once you go down the rabbit-hole of different alcohol stoves, it will be days if not weeks before the geeks amongst us emerge, somewhat dazed but besotted; don’t ask how we know this! The variations on variations are too many to enumerate but here is one breakdown that will help you understand what you are looking at when you are buying your stoves online.
Alcohol stoves come in three types:
i. Open.
These are basically a container into which you pour your fuel, such as the cat can. Some, such as our (discontinued) Starlyte and the Kojin and Zelph are filled with carbon/graphite felt, fibreglass batting or wicking that help mix air with the alcohol, allowing them to work better at lower temperatures, and reducing or even eliminating the volume of spills. These can also be sealed with a lid, handy for transport.
Open stoves generally don’t jet so are particularly vulnerable to wind, but the stove above (aka 12-10) has a clever chimney effect with holes around the outer layer to create an updraft or rather indraft to increase air mixing. The flames don’t exit the outer holes; they are for air intake and the flames jet inward from a second set of holes. They are great for narrow pots.
Others, such as the Supercat are low pressure sideburners, open containers with largish holes in the side, not top.
The number, arrangement and density of holes and rows varies: designs are countless. You light the fuel in the container, then sit your pot on the stove, sealing the opening, pressurising the vapour slightly and eliminating the need for a pot stand. This time, the flame does exit through the holes in the side. Stoves with jets at the side are less effective on small pots as the flame travels up the side of the pot, and of course they are completely ineffective in wind without a screen.
ii. Open jet:
Fuel is poured into the centre of your double-walled container and lit. Once the stove and fuel heat, the siphoning gas vaporises to burn through little jets:
Some models like the Fancy Feest (just 10g!) have flames at the top in the outer ring fed by capillary action and vaporisation. The centre ring is taller so you sit the pot on the stove, and the fuel in the centre does not burn because the pot seals it from oxygen. Antigravity Gear’s Tin Man and Evernew’s Blue Note, have jets on the side (high pressure sideburner or hybrid stoves). Here, as for low pressure sideburners, your pot sits on top of the stove so no pot stand is needed.
Some open stoves have jets at the top (Toaks siphon) and require a pot stand. The fuel in the centre burns too, but the jets are angled and create a slight vortex, drawing in air and burning hotter than an open flame.
Most of these stoves are self-priming — the time it takes for the jets to start operating or ‘blooming’ — so they are simple and effective. However, some stoves take much longer than others to bloom; stoves are less effective at heating while priming so this affects fuel use and boil times. Our Toaks siphon stove primes within seconds and it’s one of the reasons we like it.
The priming process (Image Credit: Wikipedia)
iii. Closed Chamber:
Fuel is poured through a small opening into a chamber. The chamber is sealed (closed) and then heated using a priming tray on the outside. This pressurises the chamber and the vapor inside burns as it exits through the jets.
2.2.2 Integrated Alcohol Systems
Once you have your alcohol stove, most need a pot support; as we’ve seen, a few allow you to rest the pot directly on the stove. Some of these systems are integrated with distances, wind protection and pot support all optimised for maximum fuel efficiency. This greatly simplifies buying choices for the average user; enthusiasts usually tweak their own. You’ll find numerous integrated alcohol cook systems but here are a few of the most well-known:
i. Trangia
A 25 year old Trangia, still going strong to celebrate the end of the Overland Track (Image Credit: Ellie Nor)
The Trangia was invented in 1951 in Sweden and its time-tested design is almost unchanged today. The pot, pan and burner are heavy and bulky by current standards but the system is bombproof. Although it’s most commonly used with an alcohol stove, they are also effective when used with a remote liquid fuel stove or remote gas stove. Trangias come into their own when cooking for large groups: we watched a tour guide on the Overland Track make hot chocolate for a dozen clients in a flash.
ii. Caldera Cone
Trail Designs Caldera Sidewinder Cone on the Pyrenean Haute Route (Image Credit: MoleJCole)
In many ways this popular system can be seen as an updated Trangia, with many of its strengths but without the bulk and weight. The cone system relies on a flexible sheet of titanium or aluminium that is unrolled and clipped into a cone shape. This cone is sized so that the top diameter fits a particular pot, slotting under the rim to support it a certain distance above the ground so that an alcohol stove fits underneath. The cone thereby acts both as a windscreen and as a pot support. It also traps the hot air around the pot, and directs the airflow efficiently. It is an outstandingly lightweight and effective alcohol stove system.
The distance between the bottom of the pot and stove is calculated to suit a particular alcohol stove design (a 12-10). Other stoves require more airflow than is provided by the carefully calibrated holes in the screen.
This system works well in wind but it is also extremely stable, far more so than most systems other than Trangias or remote stoves that sit directly on the ground. The Tri-Ti caldera system and wood gasification multifuel stoves like the Goshawk Pioneer Eddy 200 and the Bush Buddy have options to burn wood or solid fuel too, so are particularly versatile.
iv. Other Integrated Alcohol Stoves
https://www.x-boil.de/english.html
https://www.traildesigns.com/products/caldera-keg-f-stove-system
https://www.backpackinglight.com.au/products/evernew-ti-stove-dx-set
https://www.outdoorline.sk/en/kemping/stoves/white-box-alcohol-stove-next-generation
https://backpackingadventuregear.com/shop/ols/categories/alcohol-stoves
Goshawk is a cottage Aussie company with many interesting integrated and non-integrated stove systems.
2.2.3 DIY Alcohol stoves
MYOG Alcohol stove and windscreen in action (Erdei Mihaly)
A quick google search for MYOG (Make Your own Gear) or DIY alcohol stove yields endless options. Anyone with a few basic tools such as tinsnips, a holepunch and a pair of pliers, plus a couple of aluminium beer cans or even nothing more than a cat food tin and a can opener will be able to build a serviceable alcohol stove for a few bucks. Adventures in Stoving offers a great introduction to MYOG Alcohol stoves. The Spiguyver stove weighs an astonishing 7 grams (0.25oz)! Some terrific designs can also be found in Zen Stove’s comprehensive list of templates.
2.3 Liquid Fuel Stoves
My 40 year old kerosene Optimus (previously Primus) 96 Hiker. Parts are still available today here and on EBay!
Many of us older hikers have a soft spot for liquid fuel stoves as they pre-date pretty much everything. For this article, I hunted up our old Optimus 96 half-pint hiker, which we last used more than four decades ago. I gave it a polish – collectors prefer patina, but we’re keeping this little beauty! – plus a ten minute clean/oil, filled it with kerosene (ie paraffin aka jet fuel, don’t ever use petrol in this model!) and it fired up first time. It boiled a litre in about 15 minutes including priming instead of the normal 8-10 minutes because the somewhat dessicated pump plunger had insufficient time to absorb the maintenance oil to effectively pressurise the tank. Still, not bad for a stove left in a shed for nearly half a century: liquid fuel stoves are reliable! And modern premium liquid fuel stoves are much, much faster, faster even than canister JetBoils.
MSR Dragonfly and lunch with a view in the Grampians, Victoria (Image Credit: Dean Thomson)
When you include the dedicated fuel bottle with its pump and connecting line, most current liquid fuel stoves are not that much lighter than that little 455g Optimus 96 but, with separated fuel chamber and stove, they can burn a much wider range of fuels including kerosene, shellite, unleaded petrol and even diesel; the principles remain the same. This means they can be used around the world and are great for travel, though you must scrupulously clean fuel bottles. Some, such as the Optimus Polaris Optifuel and our Primus Omnifuel can burn all these fuels plus isobutane/propane canisters, so they are truly universal. Titanium models are surprisingly light.
Nearly all require priming, that is, heating the stove element with an unpressurised flame and then, once the tubing components are hot enough to vaporise your fuel, pumping the fuel chamber to start the stove jets functioning. The Soto Stormbreaker and Soto Muka are unusual in that they requires no separate priming fuel, at least with petrol.
Not only are these stoves fantastically reliable, but any troubleshooting can be done in the field. The most common are blockages that can be cleared with a pricker; many modern stoves are self-clearing with a built-in needle. They are effective in extreme cold; larger versions of my little Optimus were taken on early ascents of Mt Everest: liquid fuels burn hot and are ideal for melting snow. Alcohol stoves may sputter weakly along in cold conditions, but generate too little heat for melting snow in large quantities.
The manual fuel pump means you can maintain pressure till the bottle is completely empty and in any temperature or altitude, unlike gas canisters. They are used by alpinists and expeditioners in extreme cold, such as Northern Hemisphere winters and in the Arctic circle, with temperatures well below -20C. Of course, at these temperatures, you must already know what stove to use and exactly how to use (and repair) it. Ninety-nine percent of hikers — certainly in Australia — will never hike in these temperatures, and an inverted canister stove will function too (Roger has had his V6 down to a crisp -17C).
Although some liquid fuel stoves are quiet, others, known as “roarers” are not only fast – the hefty MSR EGK-EX Stove reportedly boils 1 litre in an astonishing 2.8 minutes – but also extremely fuel efficient, especially on longer trips. Roarers achieve this by very effectively mixing air with the fuel at the burner in an oscillating vortex, which is what makes them so loud — analogies of 747s and rocket shuttles have been made — and some hikers dislike them for this reason. You will not be popular in huts in the morning, unless you use a QuietStove adaptor!
The 333g/11.7oz (including pump) Soto Muka, running on petrol, outputs an astonishing 4,000 kcal / h 4,650 W 15,800 BTU (Image Credit Soto).
This is why premium liquid fuel stoves excel in extreme cold expeditions; if you are relying on melting snow for water, when a stove failure is life-threatening, a liquid fuel stove that you understand well is the safest option. Adjustable ones with simmering capabilities are better for cooking.
It’s essential to know which liquid fuel your stove burns; some multifuel designs require you to swap components depending on fuel used.
These stove systems at between about 300g and 450g are heavier than alcohol and upright canister stoves but comparable to integrated canister ones like Jetboil and, with a dedicated fuel container that lasts just about forever if you buy a reputable brand, they are infinitely more sustainable than canisters. Quality models are faster than backpacking canister stoves, too.
The Optimus Svea (about 500g compared to, say, the Jetboil Flash at 371g plus canister weight) is an integrated system with stove, pot and fuel container. It is a version of our little Optimus 96 and has been around for as long as the Trangia; it burns Shellite.
For many hikers, the biggest disadvantage of liquid fuel stoves is that they are bulky with lots of components. They require assembly and most require priming, which is a particular skill that adds a step to the process. The convenience and compactness of the canister stove is unbeatable for many who hike in benign environments.
However, others find great satisfaction in mastering their stove. A skilled hiker with a liquid fuel stove can cook anywhere and fix anything that goes wrong.
3. Solid Fuel Stoves
Solid fuel backpacking stoves fall into two main categories: 1. Wood and 2. Solid Fuel Tabs
3.1 Backpacking Wood Stoves
Heineken Pot and Titanium twig stove (Image Credit: David G Tomlinson)
Although these are called wood stoves, ‘twig stoves’ more accurately differentiates them from pot-bellies and slow combustion heaters in houses. Backpacking twig stoves are tiny, often made up of a framework that folds up into a space-saving flatpack that would make IKEA proud. There may (should!) be a base or ash pan on which your little open box or cylinder stands, with a second elevated mesh tray upon which to build your fire. Holes in the sides allow air to be drawn in to increase burn intensity. You sit your pot atop the stove.
Beyond those basics is an increasing level of sophistication and complexity. A cycling friend told us once that there are two types of cyclists: those that pare back everything for streamlined elegance, and those that add every mud guard, bottle holder, bell and electronic whistle. Well, so too for backpacking wood stoves.
Some are the simple box with mesh base. Others have an adjustable fan that regulates the flame. The famous (adders) or infamous (parers) eye-wateringly expensive Biolite not only cooks but uses heat to charge a battery, which in turn can be used to charge your electronic devices.
Some, such as the Evernew EBY255, The Caldera Cone Tri Ti and the Australian Goshawk Pioneer burn wood and Solid Fuel Tabs and alcohol. The gasification stoves burn very hot and fast, faster than conventional twig stoves and rivalling less efficient gas canister stoves.
The titanium Emberlit Fire Ant, bought at half price on MassDrop before I realised I rarely camped in places where fires are allowed.
These little twig stoves flatpack to a size that would make Ikea proud, and there aren’t even any screws to lose!
Here are a few more twig stoves:
https://antigravitygear.com/shop/product-category/toaks-titanium-backpacking-wood-burning-stove/
https://www.naturehike.com/en-au/products/naturehike-outdoor-portable-camping-burning-stove
https://www.amazon.com.au/STADELHORN-Minimalist-Ultralight-Backpacking-Bushcraft/dp/B07KNHYVN3
Of course, the biggest advantage of twig stoves is that you need carry no fuel. Most are light, some are very light, just 100g (3.5oz)! Your fuel is free, and there is something psychologically comforting about a wood fire, however small.
The disadvantages are pretty obvious, too. In many places, especially in Australia, they cannot be used in fireban season or in National Parks and Reserves. You need dry wood – often easier to find in snowy regions in northern hemisphere winters, than southern hemisphere ones where everything gets drenched in the wet season. In very cold weather, they are extremely slow to boil water.
Twig stoves require constant tending – gather all your twigs and have everything ready before lighting your stove – although some hikers find feeding a little fire pleasantly meditative. Certain designs are reportedly poor in very light winds. They cover your pots with soot and deposits, especially if the wood is not fully dry or comprises a significant proportion of bark.
Nevertheless, if you live in climates/regions where these stoves are permitted, safe and with plentiful fuel, they are worth considering. See Part Two for Leave No Trace Principles.
3.2 Solid Fuel Stoves
Solid fuel stoves are the very lightest option, lighter even than alcohol. Designs once again vary, but most comprise a tray of some kind on which to place the fuel tab, and arms or sides to support the pot.
This one weighs just 11g (0.39 oz) but titanium is of course expensive and you can immediately tell it would be atrocious in the slightest breeze.
The gram cracker stove is reportedly more efficient with two sides enclosed and the flame directed upwards towards the pot.
However, many hikers believe that an esbit stove in combination with the Caldera Cone windscreen/pot stand is the Goldilocks system for minimal weight and maximum efficiency.
Solid fuel stoves are light, convenient and some are cheap, although the tabs are expensive compared to other fuels. Esbit tabs are usually easy to light, don’t need priming, and burn well in most temperatures and altitudes. Certain solid fuels emit residues and noxious vapours whereas others emit less; hexamine is supposedly clean burning but still emits enough toxic fumes that it should not be used in enclosed spaces. Test at home: those with sensitive noses might still find the “odorless” tabs too unpleasant to bear. The stench is a deal-breaker for Geoff and me. FireDragon tabs are non toxic and can be used in vestibules.
As is often the case, fuel tab stoves are slow — similar to or slower than alcohol, which is already too slow for impatient hikers — but efficient. You can buy 4g (5 minute burn time), 5g (6 minutes), 16g (12 minutes) and 27g tabs (15 minute burn time). From these figures you’ll guess that esbit really only suits solo hikers boiling smaller amounts of water, up to about 750ml. There’s no simmer control – not that you’re likely to need one, these aren’t hot stoves – so they are best for heating water rather than cooking. You can blow out a partially used tablet and re-light it later. In a sealed sachet they last a decade and weigh little, so tabs excel as back-up fuel.
4. Other Fuel Stoves
The Pill Bottle Stove (Image Credit: Linda May). See more of Linda’s eclectic stove collection.
The pill bottle and larger paint can stove is a new multifuel stove in the market. Although it is technically a liquid fuel stove, we haven’t included it there because it functions much more like an open alcohol or esbit stove with unpressurised flames rather than pressurised jets. Pill bottle stoves are comparable or slightly heavier than alcohol stoves in weight and compactness and, like them, require a windscreen.
The stove comprises discs or rings of an absorbent porous stone. You soak these discs in fuel such as alcohol or kerosene for ten minutes, then place them on a fire retardant mat and light them. You sit the pot directly on the discs, which are stacked for smaller pots and spread singly for larger ones. The arrangement of the discs affects residue, burn time and boil time as described here; these stoves are so recent that it will be some time before further field testing by reviewers determines the consistency and accuracy of claims. As the aforementioned reviewer suggests it is a little too early to assess whether this is a genuine innovation or a gimmick.
Obvious drawbacks include pot stability with a single stack, its susceptibility to wind, and handling fuel-soaked discs with bare fingers. This isn’t as much of an issue in Australia where methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) is severely limited in its methanol content but, in the US and other countries, larger amounts of all kinds of additives are permitted. Most of us would prefer not to handle other fuels with our hands, either.
If the ten minutes of pre-soaking is included in the cook time in the same way as priming or blooming, this significantly lengthens boil time. If you’ve used these stoves, please share in the comments below.
To Conclude and Coming Up:
Geoff cooking after a day of rain, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Now that you’ve been introduced to the incredible range of backpacking stoves available, go to Part Two; How to Choose the right Backpacking Stove for YOU where we cover:
How to choose the right stove to suit your hiking style, environment and preferences
Pots, Lids and Accessories
Boiling water vs cooking
Selecting for Personal preferences: Weight, Packability, Budget, Reliability, Boil Speed, Convenience
And many more tips!
Kathmandu gear on the Great Ocean Walk, Victoria (Image Credit: Helen Humphries)
Further Reading
Numerous outstanding paywall articles and tests on backpackinglight.com
and also at Zen Stoves, the most comprehensive list of links you can imagine: https://zenstoves.net/LinksMiscellaneous.htm
